Solo Travel: First in Paris How to conquer the experience.

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On Friday I’m moving to Paris, the city that changed my life and got me where I am today.
When I first visited Paris, much younger, it was the culmination of a dream come true. I’d studied French since my grade school days and all the way through college. My mother named me after a French actress and I had always dressed as if I was destined to be a Parisian and so I made it there. The experience ended up impacting my life in a way I didn’t expect. I learned how to eat. Not just for quantity but quality. My taste buds were awakened in a way I’d never felt before. You can eat real, fresh, good, rich food and be satiated off of small bites due to the exquisiteness of the experience. You can take your time to savor, love, delve into and dream about the experience of eating something. All while surrounded by the ancient, old, beautiful romantic scenery surrounded by friends at a long table that you’ve reserved for hours, the French way..The wine is flowing..the talk of life is flowing, and the experience is burned forever in my memory. And so I take it home to encapsulate that moment forever and ever again. That’s what Paris will do to you. Every corner and neighborhoods can be like this experience, every moment can lead you into more moments that mimic this savory theme. Paris, France. What a beautiful place, stories and vignettes happen on every corner and each neighborhood introduces you to a different story time and place. Paris France. Let the adventure begin…see you Friday

I kept repeating to myself throughout my time in Salvador Bahia… I don’t believe in gods and goddesses, they don’t have powers, I revoke thee voodoo. But the spirit of Candomble is strong in Bahia. In Rio de Janeiro I saw slight reminders of the strong Candomble presence in Brazil, an offering on the floor, and in a tree, and in the ocean….but in Salvador Bahia it drew me in. The seven orixás, are everywhere in Salvador, watching you. Dressed up in Catholic priest outfits to fool the white slave masters, The Seven Orixas of African Candomble fed the hungry souls of the African slaves through deceit and trickery of the European slave masters. Now Brazilians, Cubans, Yoruba’s other Africans from all over the world pray to the gods and goddesses of Candomble for safe passage through life.

I was able to witness the goddess of the ocean Iemanja, receiving her gifts on her special day. In the ceremony there was a woman being carried out, she was put in a boat and floated out to sea. She was possessed, and shaking, overtaken apparently by the spirit of Iemanja. I could feel her energy from on top of a rock that I sat on to stay safe. The power of this woman writhing under the power of the spirit was awe-inspiring. Iemanja is the Queen of the Ocean and the mother of all. She demands flowers, makeup, perfume and other items for safe passage, security, and protection of children. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yemaja

By the end of my trip I left an offering to the vain goddess of the sea.

Solo travel in Salvador Bahia Brazil

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AFRICAN ROOTS IN BRAZIL

I cherish private moments with my Nigerian mother and father when they pass down the oral history of our people. What excites me most is when my mother tells me stories of her mother’s people. Stories of the Efik tribes and nomadic tribes that shaped her existence. In a cold nordic suburb of Chicago, Illinois there was an awakening in me. The more I grew older I could not mistake my African heritage. Its in my walk, my talk, my drive. My people, that traveled up and down the Sahara Desert, traded palm oil, language full of Hebrew, Syro-Arabic influences, a language that was an early disseminator of education, trade and commerce for West Africa. A language that dates back to 4000 BC. What a brave people proud people I come from. You cannot deny what’s in your soul and was pre-determined centuries before you were born.

So when I had my first experience with the people of Salvador Brazil, it awoke a sense of kinship. Many of the slaves sent to Salvador Brazil, were from Nigeria. In their stride, their faces, their language, their food, their joy for life, I knew I had found my way a step towards home. Just like the spirit and essence of my ancestors is alive and well in me, it is the same in Bahia. You can not take the Africa away. Bahians were proudly African. Afros, and proclamations of a connection with Africa was on everyone’s lips. Women and men with fair white skin proudly proclaimed their African heritage and it was exhilarating to be in Bahia and see this display of love for the origin. Original Africa

SOLO TRAVEL AWAKENED BY AFRICAN ROOTS IN BRAZIL

 Capoeira in Salvador Bahia Brazil

I was lucky enough to dive right into Bahian culture during my stay in Salvador. Capoeira is a Brazilian martial art that is part fighting and partly dance and singing. It was amazing to be in the room and watch how each opponent adjusted and synchronized their body with the movements of their opponent in order to win the match.
Capoeira was practiced as a guise, a way to disguise the former slaves of Brazil and their intentions to be able to defend themselves in case there was trouble. It was a means for survival and practicing was and still is a way of life. Now it is known worldwide as an important part of Brazilian culture.

Solo Travel: Capoeira in Salvador Bahia Brazil

Random musings: The power of music

for most of my life a song has haunted me. Classical music maybe by Tchaikovsky…I used to play this tape over and over again as a child. I set my stories to this music and read my most prized books to this song. but I’ve never been able to find it again.

Yet I’ve hummed it from memory since I was 10. I remember all the intricacy of this song. I can sing it with a perfect pitch. The emotions that the memory of this song conjures up is intense. It is the underlying soundtrack to my life. a haunting, minor key song that I know by heart but can’t find. Just like my love for him…. And just like this song that I have sung from memory the memory of him exists in my mind vividly. With the aching realization that though he is a plane ride away I might not be able to find him,  and the underlying fear that the reality of him and the song might be different from my memory.

Music can be powerful…

It ties your love and all your basic human emotions into an unspeakable but singable danceable journey through memory and thoughts.

When I travel I always have a soundtrack. Songs that I pick up along the way. When I play them at home I am immediately transported back to that time and space with a new appreciation for my journey.

Music can be powerful

The power of music

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New Years in Rio de Janeiro:  Tips for Reveillon

As the clock counted down 5, 4, 3, 2, 1..the fireworks erupted in the sky in a way I’ve never experienced before. Millions of people around me hugged, kissed, screamed, joyously. The beginning of a New Year spent in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in Copacabana Posts  3-5  of the beautiful beach packed with people from all over Brazil and the rest of the world. For a second the sound of the people celebrating around me was drowned out into the background. All I could hear was my heart beating hard as I realized how lucky I was to bring in 2013 in a place as unique and exciting as Brazil.

I was dressed in all white as  is the Brazilian tradition. I was told to wear red underwear for love, or green for luck, gold for money in the new year. Since I claim 2013 as the year I make everything I want happen, my plan was to wear lots of underwear. As the crowds and friends continued to party all night, I had one goal. In Brazilian tradition you have to jump the waves of the ocean seven times casting a wish for your life with each jump. As the salty waves roared and washed over my body and the sand melted underneath my feet, I made the wishes for the New Year in the best locale on Earth!

Walking along the beach with friends wading in the water

Finding yourself on the beach as the sun rises with hundreds of other partiers.

Walking the crowded streets of Copacabana and Ipanema watching all the parties in the middle of the street. People just choose a spot in the street to party and celebrate with family and friends.

Tips:

The New Years Eve celebration is celebrated in Copacabana which is a neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro in the South Zone.

Party: Be ready to be confronted by millions of people. Everyone is packed into the neighborhoods in the South Zone for New Years. Craziness ensues on the street in a way I’ve never seen before. Be ready to dress light, pack light, and party! Its ok to carry your liquor with you and drink down the street with your friends. The mood is light and festive so great ready for a crazy time!

Transportation: During New Years they keep the metro running for 24 hours and they also provide shuttle buses into the Copacabana area. Make sure you plan your entry into Copacabana well in advance otherwise you might get stuck. The best thing to do is to enter the South Zone earlier in the day and walk along the beach.

Housing: It is extremely expensive to book a hotel in Rio de Janeiro at this time. Consider booking months in advance no later than October, or look into websites such as www.airbnb.com or www.couchsurfing.com to find people willing to rent a room in their apartment for prices cheaper than hotels.

Safety: Many people lost their cell phones and wallets that night. Millions of people were packed into a small concentrated area of the city. Alcohol was flowing freely and lowering inhibitions. Consider having a money belt and keeping your cell phone close to your body. I put mine in my bra;0

Prices: Rio de Janeiro loves to raise prices during celebrations such as New Years. Come prepared to pay a high price for food, restaurants, and other normal items. Consider buying groceries outside of the south zone in order to keep costs low.

Flights: Flights are very expensive to Brazil at this time. Buy your ticket well in advance from websites such as www.cheapoair.com, www.kayak.com or any other price aggregator in order to find the best deal. It will not be easy to travel within Brazil either so know that going from Rio de Janeiro to Sao Paulo or Salvador will also cost a lot of money.

CELEBRATE NEW YEARS IN BRAZIL!!

New Years Eve in Rio de Janeiro

I’m BACK IN BRAZIL!!!

 Tonight I’m going to celebrate the New Year in style. Watch my video on preparation for Reveillon in Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro.

Supposedly millions of people are coming to celebrate, it should be a really interesting experience.

Happy New Year and I hope wherever you are in the world you have a beautiful New Years. Best of luck, love, good health, and good times.

Last year at this exact time, I was in bed listening to the music of Cesaria Evora wishing that I could even begin to understand the beauty of her music. I just knew I had to go to a Portuguese speaking country and Cape Verde to get the full picture. At that time I promised I would learn Portuguese and understand the cultures affected by this language.  Fast forward a year later, I’m packing to go to Brazil tomorrow. It just takes that moment of wanting to understand something deeper, if you follow that drive; it can take you anywhere in this world. I will make it to Cape Verde one day, but for now I delve into South America

I always step off of the train straight from Schiphol and know that as soon as I reach Amsterdam Centraal the memorable times will begin…

Amsterdam is just that comfortable European city. Amsterdam will embrace you with open arms. Its a city of contradictions, compromise, acceptance, extremes and moderation. It is everything and nothing more. You can find whatever you want here.

The moments in Amsterdam are some of my most special experiences in my travels. So many

We packed onto the boat. All 5 of us with cheeses, bread, wine, meats, and candy. As the sun set our cell phones cast the candle light as we snaked through the canals of Amsterdam just loving life. Every time we would pass another boat we would get a cheer and a roar of delight. We were feeling so lucky to be on a boat.

It was a hot and I had just come off of the train from Paris..walking down Damrack towards Dam square. She stopped me. Beautiful young Brazilian lawyer wanting to show me.. the dancers. The whole square full of vibrant green yellow and beautiful black men and women dancing salsa with a Brazilian, Suriname, twist in the square. So unexpected..My smile and joy was so wide I dropped my signature heavy bags on the side and joined in.

We went to the bar and shut it down. I was tired of De Wallen(red light district) and Nieumarkt, where all the tourists stay; I wanted to get out so I made my way towards Jordaan in Centrum. Small hole in the wall bar singing karaoke with new friends. By the end of the night the whole bar was singing dancing, politicking together. I was staying in Nieumarkt so instead of walking back I hopped onto the back of the bicycle of my friend’s friend. Tall, blonde, blue-eyed, athletic beautiful Dutch guy. We all rode through the streets dutch style and yelling at each other as we passed through the old center of Amsterdam! The guy who was driving me stopped his bike to drop me across the street from my hotel. As the others were leaving he ran back to me, kissed me, and then ran back across the street narrowly escaping being hit by a car. Then rode away on his bike. I stood at the doorstep in awe! I still am not sure… if you get on the back of a guys bike in Holland does that mean you like him?

Eating frites and mayo in the street (dutch style french fries)

Bar crawl with friends and challenging the locals to a drink off in the old city all while discussing American politics.

I’d been to the Red light District (De Wallen) before. Yet I had always seen it through the lens of my girl friends. This time the guys wanted to show me their version of De Wallen.  I was with the Australians and the British guys from my hostel. Crazy combination. They had adopted me as their sister and wanted to protect me while I was in Amsterdam. I was grateful for it but many times I felt as though I was protecting them from all of their crazy antics, I was the only voice of reason. But we had great laughs. There is so much to laugh about in De Wallen. We started in the afternoon. I was surprised to see the women in the window looked like regular women. Older even. Some were in their 40′s, some were overweight, some were a little worn out..Some were on the phone, Some were waiving and some couldn’t be bothered. Haha The guys were not impressed and none of the guys were interested in going inside. It was just the spectacle of it all. The fact that these women can openly sell their product and guys could stop inside with no judgements was fascinating to me. What is this dutch system? So openly accepting of life’s hidden vices.

The MUSEUMS!

Random walk and talk with an elderly Dutch sailor who used to live in Chicago during the 1960′s. He walked me to Rembrandtplein as he talked to me about life in Amsterdam and the Dutch mentality. All I did was ask him for directions but he insisted on walking me. Best conversation I’ve ever had.

Getting lost in the outdoor markets. You won’t go hungry. Just stop at each little vendor and get a sample of traditional Dutch food as you peruse through authentic clothing and trinkets.

My favorite pastime..Sitting at my restaurant in the Dam square with my wonderful bartender who fed me food and wine on the house my entire last trip to Amsterdam. If you are lucky you just sit on that prime real estate and you can watch the crush of people passing by. Its amazing.

When are you going to Amsterdam?